video by Dave Canterbury. The video showed Dave’s wife Iris tying a Solomon Bar bracelet at great speed. It really got my creative juices flowing; I thought that if the jig would measure and accept many different buckle sizes and alternatives then it would make my life much easier.
The Compact Paracord Jig is the third revision of the original design. It started with the large version, and then came the better design. The second design was a great design but when using it; I found that it was just a bit too long. That is why I created a third version of the jig that should be long enough to tie any length of bracelet you need while still being easy to use and store.
This article should answer many questions about building one of these jigs and I will explain how to create the sliding slots.
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- Wood (for this tutorial I will be using 3/8” thick pine boards that are available at Lowe's and other home improvement centers for projects)
- (1) 3/8” x 6” x 24”
- (1) 3/8” x 3” x 24”
- (1) 3/8” x 2” x 24”
- (1) ¼” - 20 x 1-¼ Hex Cap Bolt
- (1) ¼” - 20 Wing Nut
- (4) ¼” Fender Washers
- (2) ¼” – 20 x 5/16” Pronged T-Nuts (¼“ deep T-Nuts may work better)
- ¼” Plastic Cable Clamps
- (14) #6-½” Wood Screws
- Wood Glue (not necessary, but it helps hold the project together)
- (1) 1” x 2” x 48” pine board (you may choose to use a different size or whatever you have scrap)
- (8) 1-½“ Wood Screws
- (4) 1-½” – 2” Hex Cap Bolts with Fender Washers and Wing Nuts
- Miter Saw (a Circular Saw or Hand Saw may also be used)
- Router (depending on whether or not you care about looks, this is mandatory to have but some folks use a drill bit to create the slot which looks sloppy but works)
- ¼“Straight Router Bit (the size of this bit will determine the how wide the slider slot will be. If you choose a different size bit then you will need a bigger Hex Cap Screw to match the size.)
- Router Table (not necessary but it will make life much easier if you have one)
- Router Slot Jig (this isn't necessary to have, but it creates nice straight slots for the sliders, to create the jig you will need a 1” thick 2”W x 48”H pine board)
- ¼” Drill Bit (the same size bit as the Router Bit)
- Orbital Sander (not necessary but it makes building one of these jigs much easier)
- Eye and Ear Protection
- Square (not necessary but useful)
- Drill with Phillip Screw Driver Head (not necessary but useful)
- Printer (not necessary, you can mark the wood with a pen or pencil instead)
- Using a Router with Straight Bit (the size of the bit will determine how wide the slot will be, I chose to use a ¼” Straight Router Bit)
- Using a Jig Saw
- Using a Circular Saw
- Using a Table Saw (a dado blade isn't required but would work, but the width of slot may be too wide)
- Using a Drill (this method is probably the worst, it leaves a really sloppy end result)
- Unplug your Router and install the Straight Bit in your Router and then adjust the depth bit (make sure it’s high enough to cut the entire piece).
- Grab a scrap piece of the 3” wide stock (this needs to be the same type of wood that you are using for the Sliders). Mark the center of your 3” wide scrap stock.
- Grab a Drill with a Drill Bit that is the same size as the Straight Bit in your Router (i.e. if you are using a ¼” Straight Bit then you will use a ¼” Drill Bit).
- Drill a hole in the 3” wide scrap stock using the marks that you marked in Step 2.
- Place the 3” wide scrap stock on the Router Table with the Straight Bit running through the hole you just drilled.
- Keep the 3” wide scrap stock in place and place the guide rails of the Router Table against the scrap stock. Depending on the length of your scrap stock, you might have to use a tape measure to setup the guide rails if the scrap stock isn't long enough.
- Make sure each of your Sliders have the ¾” start and stop points marked as described in Step 11 of the Building the Compact Paracord Jig section, these marks are where you will stop routing.
- Plug your Router into an electrical outlet and then put your eye and ear protection on. Drill a hole in the center of a Slider at the center mark.
- Run the Straight Router Bit through the Slider hole you just drilled.
- You are now about to start routing the slot. Using a push stick to hold the Slider against the rail of the Router Table, turn on the Router and start routing the slot until you get to the ¾” mark and then route back to the other ¾” mark.
- Follow the instructions in the “Building the Jig“section below to build the jig.
- Place the 3” wide scrap stock that you drilled earlier inside the jig.
- Now take the jig and scrap stock to the Router Table and run the Router Straight Bit through the hole in the scrap stock.
- Either clamp the jig to the Router Table or drill holes and attach several Hex Cap Bolts with Wing Nuts and Fender Washers to attach the jig to the Router Table (make sure it is secured tightly).
- Remove the scrap stock from the jig.
- Drill a hole using the center mark in one of the Sliders.
- Place the Slider in the Jig through the hole you just drilled.
- Plug the Router into an electrical outlet and then put your eye and ear protection on.
- Using a push stick to hold the Slider down, turn the Router on and begin routing by pushing the Slider with the push stick either left or right towards the ¾” mark on either end.
- Once you've reached the ¾” mark, stop and then go in the opposite direction towards the other ¾” mark.
- Measure to find the vertical center of your Slider, mark the center at the top and bottom of the Slider and then use a straight edge to join the two marks and you will end up with a mark directly down the center of the Slider.
- For this article I will be making a ¼” wide slot, you should make adjustments to the article if you intend to make the slot wider. At the top of the vertical center mark in the Slider, measure over and mark at 1/8” from the center line on both sides of the center line.
- At the bottom of the vertical center mark in the Slider, measure over and mark at 1/8” from the center line on both sides of the center line.
- Use a straight edge to make a line from the top left mark to the bottom left mark.
- Use a straight edge to make a line from the top right mark to the bottom right mark.
- You should end up with a ¼” slot drawn out on the Slider.
- Now you have three lines on the Slider, you will use these to cut with the Circular Saw, leaving you with ¼” slot. You can also cut these lines using a Jig Saw or Table Saw.
|Oak Compact Jig with rounded edges|
This article took longer to publish than I had anticipated, but I hope that it makes it easier for everyone to build one of these jigs.
UPDATED INFORMATIONInstead of using a wing nut to secure the Bottom Sliders to the Base, use another Pronged Tee Nut.Also, when attaching the Pronged Tee Nuts, don't attach them to the frontside of the base as originally shown, attach them to the backside instead so that it will not have a tendency to pull-out of the base.
- The original version of this article in PDF form - Download
- Simple Paracord Bracelet Jig Video - Uploaded by wildernessoutfitters